In the evening, Gorazd and I were in for a true Bhutanese experience: a hot stone bath, heated with glowing stones. The stones are heated over a fire for several hours. The heat of the water, combined with the medicinal herbs and minerals from the stones, is said to work wonders.  The Bhutanese use hot stone baths to treat ailments such as arthritis, hypertension, joint pain, stomach disorders, other deep-set aches, and over 50 skin ailments. While soaking, I asked them to add another hot stone. Since there was no effect after the first minute, I asked for yet another one. Mistake. After about five minutes, both stones really “kicked in,” and the heat became almost sauna-level. Too hot, i was becoming slow cooked lobster 😊 I’ll know better next time.

Because these homestays are small, there isn’t space for larger groups, we had to stay in a remote homestay—reachable by crossing yet another suspension bridge. In the evening, we had a cooking class, where we learned how to prepare momos. I obviously didn’t master the art of folding the dough (I’m not exactly handy), but it was very interesting to watch the preparation of the filling and especially the traditional chili sauce. It’s not made only from very hot chilies, but also includes Sichuan pepper and fermented yak cheese—the latter being the so-called secret ingredient. Dinner was classically Bhutanese: almost all dishes spicy or very spicy, often with cheese as well. Mild dishes are practically unknown 😊

The entire homestay was quite basic, but excellent. The food was fantastic, there was plenty of everything, and the location was outstanding. Rooms and facilites were basic, yet functional with nice views. The hostess, a woman who lives there alone (her children have moved to Thimphu or even abroad), spoke excellent English, and a few of her relatives joined us for dinner. The evening ended with the feeling that we were very far from everything—in the best possible way.

The next morning, of course, Gorazd and I went for another short run/walk around the area. This homestay even has a camping spot, set beside the river. Beautiful, peaceful—honestly, I wouldn’t mind spending a few days of vacation here at all.