Bhutanese cuisine is simple and shaped by local ingredients and the climate. It is based on agriculture adapted to mountainous terrain, so dishes rely heavily on rice (especially red rice), as well as corn, various vegetables, and dairy products. Bhutanese food doesn’t aim for complex flavor combinations but emphasizes the basic ingredients, often in a very direct and intense way. We experienced most of these flavors at our homestay, since “hotel buffets” are usually adjusted for milder tastes.
The most iconic dish is ema datshi, Bhutan’s national specialty. It’s a simple but very spicy dish made of green or red chilies cooked in a sauce of Bhutanese cheese called datshi. This combination of chili and cheese comes in many variations and is practically everyday food. For Bhutanese, chili is not a spice but a vegetable used in large amounts.
Side dishes and carbohydrates also play an important role. In addition to white rice, red rice is very common; it is one of the most typical local grains, with a slightly nutty flavor. In higher-altitude regions, buckwheat, millet, and corn are used to make noodles, porridge, or pancakes. Momos, steamed or fried dumplings filled with meat or vegetables, are common. In Paro (and the Haa Valley), a local specialty is hoentay, a buckwheat momo stuffed with spinach. Noodles are also popular; Bhutanese bhakpo are short, hand-cut noodles usually served in soups with vegetables, eggs, or meat. Soups are thick, hearty, strongly flavored and often very spicy.
Besides huge amounts of chili, common ingredients include Sechuan pepper, garlic, ginger, and onion, as well as fermented products like fermented yak cheese, which gives dishes a strong, distinctive taste. Yak butter is used both in cooking and in the famous butter tea. Bhutanese food may not always suit Western tastes, but it is filling and closely tied to the country’s life, nature, and tradition.
Butter tea (suja) is particularly important in colder and higher-altitude regions. It is a salty tea, very different from the sweet teas most of us are used to. The base is strong black tea boiled for a long time, then mixed with yak butter, salt, and sometimes milk. Traditionally, it is churned in a special wooden cylinder to create a slightly frothy, thick drink. Occasionally, roasted rice is added for extra sustenance. The taste is unusual—salty, buttery, and quite strong—but for locals, suja is a key source of warmth and energy, especially in winter.
Regarding alcoholic drinks, Bhutan has two brands of beer: Druk Lager and Druk 11000. Both are very strong, the first at 6% and the second at 8%. The traditional local spirit is arag, a homemade liquor made from rice, corn, or wheat (whatever is available). It’s slightly cloudy, strong, and sometimes served warm with an egg inside. Arag is consumed at festivals, family gatherings, and religious events—both as a gesture of hospitality and as a way to warm the body and bond the community. The taste with egg… let’s just say it’s an acquired one, and locals will insist you drink it three times.
